Camino Frances, Day 31: El Acebo de San Miguel to Ponferrada, 16.4km

Time flows in a strange way these days.

Some days are three times as long, or twice as short, and what happened yesterday morning feels like a lifetime ago.

The longer I walk, the more fluid it gets.

Today seemed to play itself out in five parts, over two seasons and four centuries:

1. A wintery morning walk between El Acebo and Molinaseca – down what the guidebook describes as “a steep rock defile (caution; very slippery when wet)”.
But it didn’t rain today, so I didn’t even care .
And anyway, I met a very friendly goat in Riego de Ambros

#casperthefriendlygoat 

2. Time-out in the beautiful village of Molinaseca next to the river and the bridge, where Mariamartha found me having a cafe con leche and a chocolate croissant.

3. The long walk on asphalt between Molinaseca and into the city of Ponferrada, while winter changed into summer and Mariamartha added flowers to her bouquet.

4. An afternoon in Ponferrada, mostly exploring the Castillo de los Templarios, awed at all of mankind’s memories that are preserved here, in an ancient castle somewhere in the north of Spain

5. And now, after mass and a very special peregrino blessing, sitting in the plaza in the late afternoon sun and marveling at all the people I’ve met since I’ve left Astorga, whenever that was…

Anton-Julian is wearing his red sneakers, pacing up and down as he speaks to his girlfriend on the phone.Giuseppe limps to his hostel, which he described earlier as ‘bellissimo’, and ‘muy bonita’.

Sue and Dominique and their friend with his dog just sat down for tapas at the same table I had my bocadillo earlier.

Rebecca and her nephew, on their way to the albergue.

The sun is shining, and it is warm.

I missed my cats today.
But tonight all feels well in the world.

Leave a comment