Camino Frances, Day 1: Roncesvalles to Zubiri.

By the time I left this morning (wearing most of my clothes and looking like the Michelin Miss), last night’s snow had given way to rain.
Despite the cold, the initial 12-14km was blissful.
Views for days, white hills, lush forests, clear streams. Green fields with fat horses and cows with bells around their necks.
Up-hills that made my heart beat fast in my ears, downhills that took me into medieval-looking villages where I would stop for a rest and cafe con leche.
Until I reached Alto de Erro.
The continuous rain transformed “steep hills, moderate terrain” into a painfully slow descent across sharp and slippery rocks and through mud so sticky it kept pulling my hiking poles apart.
I must admit I cried a little at the end, when the sun came out and I finally entered Zubiri.

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